The Push to Be Natural - Is It Fair?

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So I wanted to do this post for some time now but just did not have the time. 
[Before I begin,  my computer is driving me nuts. The space bar is not working well so please forgive if you see words typed up together, it is late and I'm tired].

I felt the urge to address this topic after reading an interesting post on another natural hair blog site elaborating on the blogger's opinion about why non-naturals (weave and relaxed heads) have not embraced natural hair or why they continue to echo ignorant stigmas around natural hair.

The blogger (who I won't name as not to offend anyone) had a good point when she said that there is fear behind the hesitation to go or be natural - I can see that. I had it in myself when I contemplated going natural.
But I noted a tone in the blog that I have picked up here and there on different blog sites mostly by veteran naturals.  The tone is one of either disdain, intolerance or self-righteousness depending on how the opinions about those who have not embraced natural hair, are expressed.  Some approach it in subtle ways, some express frustrations that are highly relatable when in response to negative comments made to them by non-naturals about their natural hair.  Some make their opinions known in more direct,  almost impatient -  and arguably militant ways.
I say to each his own.
We are all entitled to our opinions and alot of what these naturals say are undeniably true.  The most recent post, however, raised, for me an interesting question - that is: Is it fair for us naturals, to judge non-naturals' reasons for not joining the natural bandwagon?
Is it fair for us to, not just assume, but to propagate, as an educated perspective on some kind of soap-box, the belief that non-naturals have a secret self-hatred about who they are and what grows out of their bodies? 
Is it fair, as this blogger did, to go so far as to conclude that the self-hatred extends beyond what grows naturally from them into a hatred of their own blackness?  A desire to cover it up with weaves? To subdue and smooth it away with relaxers?

Hair, we all know, represents different things to different people but is it going too far to insinuate that our hair is an expression of our race and thus, by hiding it, we are showing shame about our race?
 I personally don't think it is fair.  I think it's a militant way to be.  I think its a dogmatic way to look at ourselves as a race, as a people.
I understand how powerful our hair can be.  It obviously evokes strong emotions in us.  It evokes a sense of power and courage when we cut years of relaxed growth off and leave only a few inches of natural hair on our heads.  It evokes a sense of accomplishment when we see the resulting length and strength of hair we have taken care of for months or years. It evokes a sense of pride and strength to know we withstood the crazy stares, the negative comments, even the ridicule.
I get that.
But I feel like at the end of the day, we should not forget that its just hair.  Its not a movement.  Our hair that is so malleable and elastic and free-spirited should never become a catalyst or reason for militance or dogma or intolerance.  And oh the arrogance that we should look down from our new place of fluffy- and coily-haired glory to the very place we came from and show intolerance to those who may not yet have arrived at the enlightenment that is natural hair.
Isn't the decision to go back natural just another stage in the series of epiphanic self-discoveries we find ourselves faced with time and again in life?
If we liken going natural to seeing the light and anything-but to darkness, then should we be so harsh in our criticism of non-naturals?  Think about it -  if you are in the dark, you can be accused of no more than ignorance and maybe fear  (and maybe not even fear if you do not hesitate to leap as soon as you know better). 
I just think we do not do the beauty of natural hair any justice by turning it into some kind of platform from which to preach to the rest of the world.  We show grace and tolerance and let shine the natural example of our very individual beautiful naturals.   I think left on its own our natural hair are as the flowers in the field: So bright, so damn gorgeous, its beauty draws in even from far and everyone wants to comes closer just to be apart. I mean that's partly what drew me to natural hair!
I do believe relaxed and weaved heads with disdain for natural hair are in the dark, and those with disdain for their own natural hair are even sadder to me.  But let's remember that for most of us, relaxing began  not as an activity of self-hate or to smuff out/tone down our blackness but as children sitting at our mothers' knees inhaling the heady camphor of the noxious cream and believing with childish naivete, the flowy-haired promise we saw on tv.
We were 5 or10 or, in my case, 11. Our immature brains did not have the forethought to assess the damaging implications, much less to entertain the statement it would make to those who remained or returned to natural.
And most of us stayed relaxed not out of self-hatred but out of ignorance of how to change all we knew and care for a new kind of hair with its own demands and trials.
Let us,  natural sisters,  be patient and tolerant and have faith that our hair has its own way of speaking its beauty that don't need a microphone or a platform; that don't need to convince anyone - especially those who aren't ready to hear it.

Whew! Now that that's out of the way -  I'm going to bed.
G'nite Curlies! ....Yes and, of course, your two cents on this topic are welcome. :)

Ayurvedic Series to Come

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Additions to my current regimen: Oiling my scalp once, sometimes twice a day with a mixture of these oils:
Hemp Seed Oil
Jojoba Oil
Black Castor Oil
Olive Oil (I think, I can't remember)
And a few drops of spearmint essential oil because the hemp seed oil mixed with the castor oil has an overwhelmingly nutty scent to me.

Anyway, on to the point of this post: I've come to appreciate that the quality of the hair I grow will depend on how healthy my scalp is.  So I thought, what if I upped what I'm doing for my scalp, optimize my scalp cleansing and moisturizing regimen with time tested ayurvedic oils and treatments?  Would it affect the growth of my hair?  Would I see an increase in growth rate or notice healthier, thicker new growth?

We all know fine, brittle hair is prone to breakage.
But did you know that hair does not only become fine and brittle as a result of chemical treatments or harsh products or lack of moisture?
It can grow out of our heads that way!
Yes, the quality of the hair we grow at different points in time, also depends on our diet, hydration, stress levels and how healthy (balanced) our scalps are.

So with this news, I am going to start a regimen series - I will call it the Ayurvedic Series because I am tapping into the centuries-old, tried and true techniques from places like Asia, India and Africa  and applying them to my hair care process.  I will also be treating my scalp as gently as I treat the skin on my face which I am very discerning about - I mean, its my face!
You know sometimes we don't treat our scalps as well as we should.  We scratch it with combs to get rid of  'flakes;' we scrub it with our nails....  I mean how ironic is it that we baby the hair that grows out of our scalps but treat the source of the hair, our scalps, like we would the bottom of our feet?  (Not sure about my analogy but you get my drift...)

And don't worry I will share my treatments, instructions on how I did it - everything.

The treatments will center around  including the use of extracts (in the form of oils, powders) from the following plants in my haircare regimen:

  • Amla - historically used to strengthen and condition hair



  • Henna - historically used to strengthen hair




  • Ginseng - historically known to improve hair growth

  • Brahmi - historically known to improve hair growth




  • Shikakai - historically used to cleanse scalp


  • Tamanu - historically used and known for its regenerative properties



  • Neem - historically used and known for its antimicrobial properties

  • And some great oils I can't remember too much of right now but will list in the treatments I will use them in.

I will continue to post on this topic.

Is My Hair A Pilfer?

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So I've been more than lazy lately.  I have not even co-washed in two days, which is a long time for me.  I deep conditioned and applied a leave-in mix on Saturday.  I have since been moisturizing each day with Qhemet's Olive and Honey and right before bed with black castor oil.

I have been meaning to try twist-outs but it hasn't happened yet.

I have been noticing especially since I've gotten some more length that my hair likes to pick things up and hold on to them.

 I guess its not really pilfering since its usually annoyingly gross things like pieces of cotton, or thread or any lightweight congobulation of random grossness usually hairlike.  (Why can't she pilfer things that can actually be of use to me like some diamonds or money or something?)

No.  Many a morning or post-middday nap I have faced the mirror to find some glob of randomness sticking to her.

Does this happen to you ladies? Do you notice that things stick to your natural hair?

I suppose it helps to know I have an accomplice if I wanted to resort to a life of pilfering (she appears to be good at hiding things). But its annoying to be on my way out the door, and after a second thought to check the mirror, I find a hairball from my cat stuck to her or pieces of yarn.
Maybe she just has a sense of humor?

Anyway, take my advise:   If you wear your hair out in a 'fro, make sure to examine it closely before leaving the house.....unless you like being the object of stifled giggles by grade school kids.
Peace out.

Makeup -TWA Pt. 4

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Eyebrows

The difference between looking like a crackhead and looking like a diva.

Eyebrows will make or break a twa look or any short look but especially a natural short look. Think about it, your hair is very curled or kinky and very short. It looks like it has a mind of its own (which it probably proudly does), so you want the rest of you to look put together so it looks like you deliberately styled it that way and that you are not a victim of crack-cocaine, fashion-failure or anything else.

I get my eyebrows threaded. Its up to you, if you wax or tweeze or thread. I like threading because its no more painful than waxing and I don't have to worry about my skin being peeled off in the process (happened to me several times) and it looks cleaner to me. I think of those indian women who are masters at making up their faces.

But to keep your eyebrows looking extra-good:

Tools

Eyebrow brush and comb
Eyebrow shadow or filler and applicator.
Wax or butter

Tip

Ask whoever does your eyebrows to trim them with scissors. The person who does mine, combs them upward and trims the longer hairs so they look polished. Don't ever let anyone use a razor on your eyebrows, its a recipe for ingrown hairs and other disasters. Also, the person is more likely to make mistakes resulting in misshapen eyebrows since a razor is not easy to hold.

Directions

1. Comb or brush eyebrows in the direction you wear them.

2. Using a very narrow and small applicator brush, apply wax or butter (I actually use shea butter since I ran out of wax which might even be better because its more nourishing for my skin and eyebrow hairs).

3. Use the brush and butter/wax to smooth your eyebrow hairs in the direction you wear them.

4. Dab the same brush in the filler (usually a matte powder that matches your eyebrow color) and make a sweeping line toward the ends of your eyebrows (inward out) to make a sharp outer edge.

5. Fill in any areas that look sparse, with the filler. Make sure to be light-handed so you don't end up looking like the cookie monster. Even though your eyebrow color looks black, it is most likely off-black or brown so you should probably never use a black filler. A dark brown one when applied multiple times will look black anyway.

And that's all folks. This was exhausting for me, but hopefully this series has been helpful for those of you unsure about what to do to enhance that twa and nstwa. If you have aaannnyy questions, tips for me - anything - please, please let me know. I am always learning.
Later.

Makeup -TWA Pt. 3

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Lips

So my lips are my next best feature (remember I said pick two). I play them against my eye makeup for an overall effect. This means if I have alot going on with my eye makeup I keep it light on the lips and vice versa and sometimes I keep it light altogether with just foundation, mascara and a nude/sheer lip color.

In this case, to complement my liquid eyeliner and eyeshadow look, I would do this:

Tools

Lipstick (matte only if you want stronger color) (my fav now since summer is coming is a reddish-orange - mostly orange - color. Its hot!)
Lip salve
Clean face towel
Gloss color (for that extra lip shine if its a nighttime look)

Directions

1. Clean your lips before applying lip color! This way your color won't clump and leave little blotches on your lips - not cute!).

-Dry your lips first by gently wiping with dry towel.

-Dampen a part of the face towel under warm water or in warm milk if you have time and you're in the self-pampering mood. Then, using the damp part, gently wipe your lips again, rubbing to remove dead skin (which will appear whitish). Once your lips feel clean and smooth, dry again by wiping gently with dry side. Be gentle, you don't want to bruise your lips!

2. Apply lip salve. Rub unto lips making sure not to apply too much.

3. Apply lip color. The amount of color you want on your lips will depend on how much salve you added since the salve will dilute the color. If I want alot of color I will actually wipe away some of the salve ((I add the salve to soothe and protect my lips first) before adding the lipcolor.

-If you want subtle color, apply alot of salve. You can use a brush to apply lipcolor, I'm lazy so I just stroke it on, making sure to get the sides and inner parts of the lip as well. If my color is bold (as in the hot pink color I wear sometimes) then lipliner is a must. Make sure to use a lipliner that is similar to but darker than your lipcolor. Again, a beauty consultant can help you choose a complementary lipliner.

4. If I am going for a matte look but not using a matte lipcolor, I will wipe away almost all the salve, then apply the lipcolor and, using a piece of paper (paper towel and tissues will usually leave pieces behind) dab away the shine. You may have to do this applying and dabbing away several times to get intense color without the shine. Be patient and you'll get there. You can also mix lip colors for a unique color, be creative with it.

Don't forget to re-apply lip salve at the end especially if you go matte but the weather is cold, chapped lips with lipstick is not a good look! For a high shine look (great for nighttime looks) skip re-applying the salve and apply a gloss instead. If the gloss is sheer, it should not mess up your lip color.

Nails

Tools

Filer
Cuticle-trimmer
Light oil

Directions

Just shape them, however you like them. You don't have to get them done every two weeks. I almost never get my nails done. I just cut my own cuticles and shape with a filer. When I'm in the mood, I apply a color that pops like orange or dark blue.

I don't leave color on my nails for long because they tend to make them yellow and brittle. But if you do leave them on your nails for long, wipe your nails with pure lemon juice or quickly rinse with apple cider vinegar after you remove the color.

My basic thing, is just making sure my nails are always clean and well-shaped. And now that I use all these amazing oils in my hair, I almost never have cuticle problems, partly the result of HIF (hand-in-'fro) disease but at least something benefits. :)

Next post is the last but definitely not least part of our beauty series....

Makeup - TWA Pt. 2

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Ladies, enhance those amazing cheekbones or that pretty complexion!

Cheeks
If your cheek is your best feature, the key here is color that complements your skin tone. See a beauty consultant (like the ones at the MAC counter) to find the color that works for you - just make sure that it's subtle.

Tools

-Blush compact

-Large narrow or rounded brush

-Shimmer or glow

Tip
The shimmer is the trick. I call it shimmer but its really a very subtle 'non-color' that makes your skin glow. By 'non-color' I mean it should not show any other color than your natural skin tone, it should only show a shimmer when light hits it. The key is to get a quality shimmer or glow. I have found that with shimmer, quality matters. The size of the shimmer particles are often larger in shimmer products by lower quality brands.

You want something that looks like fairy-dust, matched to your complexion. I use MAC Fawntastic Cream Color Base and MAC Indianwood Paint.
Cheat
Here is a cheat: If you have medium-brown complexion with yellow undertones (do you look yellow in some areas or some lights?) go for a gold shimmer. MAC Indianwood will work but cheaper brands like CoverGirl sell good gold shimmer as well. Make sure the shimmer particles are dust-like or else it will look tacky and childish. (If you can pick each shimmer 'dust' from your face - not the right one)


Directions

1. Smile
2. Apply a sweep of blush where your cheeks stick out the most, maybe a hair above where they stick out the most.
3. Using another blush brush (may be smaller) apply a sweep of shimmer above where you applied the blush, (should be under and toward the outer edge of your face). Make sure the stroke is very light and even if you don't see it, don't apply more. It's there. Applying too much will make you look clownish. If you don't see it, take a few steps back from your mirror, you should see it when the light hits that part of your face. Play with it, have fun with it.

Skin
I was not blessed with flawless skin. I've had to work at it. And over the years I have noticed that my skin is very responsive to what I put into my body (both good and bad) and reacts to my stress levels. So I manage that and it has helped my skin alot. When I thought about going natural, I knew my skin had to be on point because I could no longer hide behind long bangs like I used to.

I found that when I eat products high in vitamin A, within a few days my skin looked clearer and glowed.
My High Vitamin A Foods

Carrot juice (jamaican-style) with parsley (my own twist)
Cod liver oil (the emulsion because the oil tastes just nastay)
Spinach salads with lots of tomatoes
Avocados, avocados, avocados
Baby carrots and dip
Pecans

Tools

Blemish concealer
Powder foundation.
Face moisturizer - Even if you have oily skin you should always protect your skin with a moisturizer (I have oily skin and I love Burts Bees marshmallow face cream - gives a glow - without making me look oily).
Eye creme (I love Burts Bees royal jelly)
Tip

Eat something with vitamin A each day or take a supplement (The body absorbs vitamins/supplements in food-like or liquid form better)

Another tip, especially if you tend to have problem or sensitive skin, keep wearing makeup to a minimum. I am a strong believer in letting skin breathe - plus makeup is drying even if you have oily skin so if you're spending a day in or just hanging out at your fav casual local spots, well-groomed eyebrows, lip salve (and maybe concealer if you're self-conscious) is most likely all you need.

Directions

1.Wash face and apply moisturizer and eye creme (as you get older or if you have a super-busy and stressed life, eye creme becomes a must to keep bags and under-eye circles to a minimum. Start using this stuff before you see problems to prevent you ever having to deal with them).

2. Let the moisturizer dry. Skin will absorb what you put on it and the moisturizer is supposed to protect your skin (among other things) so don't apply makeup until your moisturizer has 'set.'
3. Once the moisturizer is 'set' (your skin feels normal again), use a small narrow or round brush to apply concealer to blemishes. Oftentimes I stop here. If your concealer is good and blends well with your skin, and if you have not had to apply much you may not need more, just make sure it is blended in well. Check your skin in a well-lit place to make sure.

4. If I am getting all dolled up, I then apply a powder foundation (because my skin is oily). If your skin is dry, use a creme foundation and make sure it is non-comedogenic (doesn't cause breakouts) especially if you have problem skin like me.

See a beauty consultant for the perfect concealer, blush and foundation for your skin.

I know some of you, like me, like to shop on your own and don't think you need 'consulting' and you may not if you know what colors look good on you (I like to think I do) but for foundations, blushes and concealers, they will be the best at guiding you to the right products.

If they know their stuff, they won't just look at your skin tone, but your undertone as well (as in, is your undertone yellow or blue etc?).

Here's a tip: Darker skin tones will more likely have blue undertones so ask for products like lip color that have blue undertones, and medium to lighter skin tones will have more yellow/orange undertones.

There are red lipsticks for blue undertones and ones for yellow/orange, so it helps to know your skin.

When I apply foundation, I swirl the blush in the powder, shake off excess and very lightly 'sweep' my face. Very lightly may mean doing this dab and sweep process several times but I don't want to force the foundation into my pores - I want the foundation to sit on the moisturizer on my face - so it helps to use a light touch. If its powder, the more you apply, the more you will see the change, even with light sweeps.

That's all, Curlies. Smooches.

Makeup - TWA Pt. 1

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I am sharing my trade secrets with you, my twa divas, just cuz  I am so proud of you.

So....

Some of us transitioned for months, close to a year, before doing the big chop.  Others of us, either out of impatience (me) or sheer bravery and badass, did the big chop two, three, four months in.
Some of us found our way easily.
Some of us were like, "what the heck, why do I look like a boy?!" (or other phrases of amazement and confusion).
Some of us are doing just fine figuring it out but aren't too proud to say we are still learning the best things for ourselves.

To all y'all, my twa companions on this journey, I have decided to share everything - yes I saaaidd everything *giving side eye* on what knowledge I have accumulated over the years pre- and a little post-twa for enhancing our already beautiful selves.

This is a beauty post. I may do another post about fashion, maybe.
I am breaking this out into a series of several posts because it's loong.  Just think of the series as my beauty tell-all (I like the sound of that). Maybe you'll find some tips to help enhance what you already know and maybe it will save you from going back to relaxers if you are still in the 'what the heck have I done? I look like a crackhead' stage of your journey *forced smile.*
Smooches.

Here we go:
So you all know that during our twa and nstwa stage, our face is all anyone who meets us see. Our features are brought into the spotlight including flaws and blemishes and for some of us it means that certain things about our face that we have been insecure about and been able to hide behind our long, relaxed hair, no longer have a hiding place.

For some, the twa stage brings a new discovery about the beauty of  their features that were lost behind longer hair and they get compliments galore about how much short hair 'fits' their face and brings out their features.
For others, this stage only brings out more insecurities. These less secure new naturals may feel their features are too 'weird' or their face and head too 'weird'-ly shaped to look cute with a teeny weeny 'fro.

Well I am here to tell you we can all be cute with little to no hair on our heads. The secret is changing how we put it all together.

For me, my biggest concern was that I'd look like a boy. I'm already long and thin with a narrow, face that sometimes looks too serious to me. I was sure, people would start mistaking me for a boy (at least until they see the 'twins' which are unmistakeable. Love you guys *looking at chest*).

I also thought my head was weirdly shaped. I wasn't sure why, but even though others would tell me my head, like my face is small, I just thought it was too big. I mean I have my horror stories of going shopping, finding a cute hat, and falling in love with it -  only to find out it wouldn't fit my big-ass head.
 (Maybe all the hats I tried on were size small?? *tsk*).

So, I'm going to share some tips about my beauty regimen namely, how it changed with my chop.

Let's start here: What, to you, are the best features on your face? Your eyes? Your lips? Those amazing cheekbones?
You have to think of at least two and I'll tell you how to make them pop.
The key is to play each up or down in relation to the other to get that flawless look.

Eyes
My best feature, I think are my eyes. And what better to make my eyes look more cat-like, feminine and sexy, than liquid eyeliner.
Yep, the one thing I hated to do, I would do everyday for work. Why I hate liquid-eyeliner? I always messed it up.

So my goal was to perfect it. To become the best liquid eyeliner-applying-chick ever. As long as it's not time-consuming or overly complicated, I can do it. And so can you.

Tools
-Q-tips - yes I said it right - you will need q-tips. Why? To erase mistakes
-Water
-Eyeliner: The secret to applying liquid eyeliner is - well - a good liquid eyeliner!
Good ones I've found:
Benefit, MAC, Maybelline and CoverGirl. I use CoverGirl and sometimes MAC FluidLine with a flatbrush applicator. The process for applying the MAC FluidLine is different so I'll explain the CoverGirl one.

Tip
-The key is that the applicator is easy to hold,  it goes on smooth and has a very pointed tip.

-When I apply liquid eyeliner, I start at the outer edges of my eyes, as far out as I want the 'tail' of my eyeliner to go. I keep the 'tail' of my eyeliner narrow if its for work and go more elaborate if I'm going out at night.

-Remember this tip: Day  makeup should be light, mostly neutrals. You want to give the illusion you naturally look that way -  NOT that you applied tons of makeup to get that way. Totally unsexy.
At night, you can go crazy with it. The darker atmosphere means your day makeup will not show up as much so use it as the opportunity to go all out (but still not look overdone).

Directions
If I use my CoverGirl liquid eyeliner:













1. Draw a sweeping line from the edge of the eyes (farthest from your nose) inward. Don't worry about where the sweep ends, the key is to get the edge right (the hardest to do). Making it a 'sweep' means you have to loosen your wrist somewhat which will help reduce shakiness in your hands.

Think of drawing (if you've ever taken an art class you know what I'm talking about). You may need several more inward 'sweeps' to get the tail the way you want it. Once you have your tail, draw your lines inward toward the inner edge of your eye (closest to the nose). Don't freak out if the line ends up really thick and looks shaky, thats what the q-tips are for.

2. Wet your q-tip under running water (do not use oil, it will spread and make your line smudgy). If the q-tip is too wet, dab it on a towel to get rid of excess water.

3. Going from the inner edge of your eye (the part closest to the nose) outward, use a sweeping motion to thin and smooth the line. Be patient, you may go through several q-tips to get the line perfect (if you're a perfectionist).

Cheat
Here is a cheat if you are in a hurry. Instead of working to clean up the entire line, clean up the outer edge, make your tail sharp and angled however you like, and then smudge the parts of the liner that are more inward (directly over the eye). People will mostly notice the outer edge anyway, and the key is to get it cat-like. If I'm going out at night, I will add color above the liner.

4. To add color above the liner:
-Choose a color (please don't pick one that matches your outfit! *side eye*).
Pick one that complements the colors in your outfit. For example, if you're wearing brown, green eyeshadow is a perfect complement. If you are wearing blue or green, silver eyeliner is a great complement. You get the picture.
Just dab it on the eyelid with a brush or your fingers, and then I blend the top part of the liner into the shadow with a rubber-tipped applicator. It looks like this:



I will also add gold or brown shimmer to the insides of my eyes where the upper and lower lids meet. And, of course, finish with mascara (if I didn't apply liner to the lower lids, I make sure to apply mascara for an old-school look)
Get creative with it. Find what works for you.

Part 2 I'll go over enhancing those standout cheekbone and giving the illusion of flawless skin.
In the meantime, and for inspiration, here is a pic of a gawwwwgess model rockin' a twa and flawless makeup:

Isn't she purrtty?

TWA Pics

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Hair Goddess Tip - Homemade Chocolate Conditioning Hair Treatment

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 Every once in awhile I like to treat myself. It has mainly been homemade skin spa treatments  - I have countless homemade recipes for body scrubs, face masks, and such that have worked on my sensitive skin.
But since this blog is about my hair journey, I wanted to share my latest indulgent treatment and it has my favorite food in it! If you haven't guessed it yet - it's CHOCOLATE !

Mmmmmm!
I loooove chocolate. Actually hold on while I grab a piece of chocolate to snack on while I write this post....
Ok I'm back and since my chocolate bar has now put me in an even better mood...let me elaborate on the reason for making a chocolate hair treatment. (I may just write another post on the benefits of dark chocolate for lifting mood etc.)
 Chocolate has great properties the hair can benefit from. The main one is the same reason green tea rinses and coffee conditioners have become so popular - yep you guessed it: Caffeine.

Now I can't speak for the effects of caffeine on the hair but on the surface of the skin, in this case the scalp, caffeine works the way it does in the body (to a much milder degree of course) - as a stimulant, increasing blood circulation to the scalp.

Chocolate has other great benefits through its antioxidant properties but we only benefit from these when chocolate is taken internally. Antioxidants cannot work their magic when applied externally. I could get into the biochemical reasons for this but we'll keep this light.  :)

I'd love to take the credit but I didn't invent chocolate treatments for hair. Brazilians have been using chocolate as a glossing treatment for straightened hair for years.
And mostly because chocolate is thought to impart shine when applied to hair.

But enough about that, here it is (Remember to adjust for the amount of hair you have. This is enough for a small twa):

1 tbsp honey
1 overripe banana
3 tbsps coconut milk
2 tbsps coconut oil
3-4 tspns melted pure cocoa butter
1-2 tspns jojoba oil (olive oil can be used as a substitute)
1/4-1/2 cup pure cacao (cocoa)  powder or enough to thicken

If you make the mixture too thick it will dry out fast and you don't want it to dry out on your hair so to liquify in case it gets too thick just add more coconut milk.
Mash and then blend bananas with coconut milk first until pureed (if not you will end up with banana chunks in your hair). Add cocoa powder last.

Apply with fingers to clean hair (I shampoo first) from root to ends until hair is saturated then cover with a plastic cap and let sit about 10 minutes. Rinse out with lukewarm water until water runs clear. Then rinse with an apple-cider vinegar-and-water mixture (1/4 cup apple cider vinegar to a gallon of water)  or a mildly clarifying rinse of your choice to ensure any buildup or excess rinses away.

Thats it. Your hair will smell great and feel oh-so-soft.
To finish, I moisturized with a mixture of melted cocoa butter and a light oil (jojoba oil is best but I also alternate with sweet almond oil).

If you try this decadent treatment, let me know what you think.

Childhood Hair Nostalgia

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IF you are from the Caribbean.....IF you are Jamaican, I  know you have the memory of sitting at your mother's or grandmother's knees while she applied this to your hair before parting it into sections and braiding. Who can forget the smell?! Whew! So I just bought these two bottles and immediately as I opened them, the whiff hit me.

Unmistakeable.

It's not a pleasant smell (very nutty) but not unpleasant either.....or probably its because I welcomed the memories it brought back, especially of sitting at my grandmother's knees. She was always gentle with my hair, unlike my mother, although she braided it so loosely I looked like I had a helmet on.
Love my Grandma.

Anyway, this stuff was not used often enough in my hair (mineral oil-based hair oil was easier to come by) so now I'm pampering my hair to make up for it - with this stuff. The original.

And so far, I think my hair likes it. But the smell means I can only apply this stuff at night (which I do, as a re-moisturizer before bed) or if I will be home all day. Bring on those rainy, lazy days.

People have claimed left and right that it makes your hair grow thicker...I will let you know what it does for me.

PS. It is very different from the castor oil you buy at Whole Foods. I really was like: 'Whats the big deal? Castor oil is castor oil.' No babes. Get the bottle, take a whiff, take a look and you will see what I mean. Now will my hair react differently to it? That we'll see.

Relaxed Heads Read Up - My All-Time Fav Products

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Despite the fact that I am no longer a Relaxed Head, there are some products that I have been able to carry over well, into my new routine and a few brands that served me well when I was relaxed (saved my hair from breakage) that I continue to benefit from. I wanted to share some of the products I still use and the brands I still support as a Natural head.

The first is the Phyto brand. Love, love this brand. Back in college, a hair stylist gave me this amazing cut and applied Phyto's Phytokarite Intensive Treatment Mask. It smelled so nice and left my hair silky, shiny and bouncy so of course I wanted to know what it was. I started using this brand religiously, mainly their intensive conditioning line.
The weekly treatments prevented further breakage and my hair just felt great. When I started working (and could afford them) I branched to their styling products and even tried the brand's relaxer a few times. I liked their line because they were plant-based and developed by an African woman scientist and I thought, if anyone should be empathetic to Black hair, it would be an African woman (who happens to be a scientist). The relaxer was ok, it burned and smelled like all other relaxers so I can't speak for it but other products I have loved by this brand are:

-Phytopolleine (a pre-shampoo oil treatment that I discussed in an earlier post that I still use as a Natural)

-Phyto Ultra Gloss Wax, makes hair super shiny and its plant-based.

-And this:




















Quinoa Oil Moisturizing Balm

Today I use this as an alternative to the shea butter/coconut oil mix I generally apply after a co-wash.
I use this when I plan to apply gel before the next wash. This is because, from my experience, the gels or custards do not react well with shea butter and coconut oil.  This moisturizer smells great and sometimes I have mixed it with castor oil (the clear one) if I just want to apply a light moisturizer (and do not plan to apply gel before the next wash).

Kerastase is another brand I used as a Relaxed Head that I still use today. Kerastase is the high end line for L'Oreal. I  mainly use the deep conditioning treatment except I changed from using the Masquintense when I was relaxed to now using the Oleo-Curl Intense conditioning treatment which  really defines curls.

During my relaxed years I also used Kerastase's Ciment Thermique which is a heat protectant for  blowdrying and I think it really helped (I since gave it to my sister who is Relaxed).

My only negative with Kerastase is how expensive it is. The cost really hinders my using this line more. Of the two though, Phyto remains my favorite because I think they are more dedicated to plant-based development and they have a line targeted for Black hair (both relaxed and natural) called PhytoSpecific. I really respect the fact that they considered how much more nurturing relaxed hair needs and developed a line just to support this type of hair - that still advocate the use of quality plant-based ingredients...and, of course, developed by someone who looks like us!

Brief Product Review: Qhemet Biologics

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So my order arrived a few weeks ago. Here is my experience:
-the Olive and Honey Hydrating Balm is my favorite. It literally looks like honey and smells like olive oil. It has the benefit of providing water-based moisture (the honey) with sealing (the olive oil). When applied to dry hair, it softens and moisturizes without a heavy feeling.
The Amla and Olive Heavy Cream works well as a general moisturizer which I mix with a bit of coconut oil and apply to damp hair directly after my shower. I didn't see that it did anything special besides being a moisturizer, in fact, I was as satisfied as I would be with any general moisturizer. I like them because they are made from natural ingredients, nothing I couldn't pronounce and all plant-based. My least favorite? The Nourishing Pomade, which is very oily without offering any moisturizing benefits. Perhaps works well as a sealant but I'm not crazy about the strong lemon smell. Of course I will find a use for it since I paid a good amount for it. Overall, not blown away but I think they are good purchases.  They didn't create any special change in my hair as in the curls so I didn't see the point in posting pics of my hair.  Hope this is helpful.

Warning: This Post is NOT About Hair! But You May Still Learn Something *giggles*

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Hi Y'all
So I just read a pretty thought-provoking post from bglhonline one of my fav natural hair sites and what better place to expound on my thoughts in response, than on here. For the few of you who read this, I humbly appreciate it and definitely welcome your thoughts on the matter.
The post was a response to Jill Scott's article in Essence magazine Jill Scott Talks Interracial where Jill Scott comments on the feeling or 'wince' she gets when she hears her Black male friend is married to a White woman and her idea as to why she gets this feeling with some details about the effect of the history of the relationship between Black men and Women and some references to the African diaspora in general.
Well I felt compelled (and did) leave a painfully long comment in response (bglh if you happen upon this post, please accept my apologies for clouding your post space with such a long post - its just that I had alot to say).
Anyway, in case its not posted there, which I wouldn't fault her for due to its length, here was my response:

I don't know why but I have yet to feel this 'wince' when I hear a Black man is with a White woman. Maybe its because I'm Jamaican but I lived there only the first 10 years of my life and then I moved to the States. I think one feels the 'wince' when someone in the only pool your are looking to, chooses outside your pool.

For example, let's imagine a room where there are clusters of people rounded up into groups and each are on a quest to find a partner. You are in group A and somehow have convinced yourself (or been told) that the only pool from which you can, will, or want to find your partner is group B (although there are groups C-Z in the room). You also understand that for whatever reason (maybe because group B shares some history with you) group B should be most inclined to choose a partner from your group, group A.
 Then you look and suddenly see members of group B moving away from the group to select their partners from groups C-Z. You see that group dwindling as the members find their partners but your group A is still fairly large (though some may have managed to find their partners in group B and a few have also gone off to find partners in groups C-Z).

I would feel the pinch, the 'wince', the sting if not panic all together.

 I mean does this mean I will not have much to select from? And it would hurt even more if the members of group B I see straggling off to find their partners in groups C-Z were what I thought of as compatible matches for me. I would have several options:
1. Resolve to go it alone.
Or
2. Crumple up and disgard my belief that my partner can or will only come from group B and start looking at the other groups.
If I definitely don't want anyone in the other groups then I will just have to take the risk I may never find what I want, or settle my expectations of what I want so someone still in group B who I may not have been willing to consider before, becomes a viable option for me.
Basically, I will have to think outside the box. This is what I would do.....but then again, I have never been an 'inside the box' thinker in general.
I love Black men, especially ones from the Caribbean who share my love for ackee and saltfish and can play dominos and do the latest Jamaican dance and understand when I speak patois. I dreamed of marrying a man like that. But then I met someone who loves me to no end. I did my big chop and he was telling me how beautiful my kinky hair is, showing me the curls here and there and you guessed it - he's not in group B.

 Damn he even helps me mix my homemade concoctions for my hair. And never fails to bring me an avocado when we run out without my asking just because he knows I use it in my hair.
I'm not married yet so who knows who I'll end up with but for now, I'm happy. I think we have to abandon whatever has made us think we can only find love - we should, or will, only find love in group B and look around us...all 360 degrees.

So that was my comment.

I know the dating thing is way more complicated than this. And I see where Jill Scott is coming from because the complex and emotionally charged history of the relationship between the Black man and the Black woman does have alot to do with how some Blacks may feel about interracial relationships -  And I didn't even touch on how much more of a sting it is if the relationship between the members of 'group A and B' with 'groups C-Z' was historically plagued with negativity, hostility and other bad '...ity's  :)
In any case, what are your thoughts on this topic?

Soaps, 'Gentle Cleansers' and the Claim that 'Natural is Always Better'

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I have been busy procrastinating on writing a 12-page paper on the most boring subject ever invented - software testing.  I know.  I know.  I will bore you no further.  I have decided (because I am dedicated to educating you guys as I learn myself) to take very important time out of my procrastinating to share some new insights with you....in addition to other ramblings of course, I mean God forbid this should be a short post. I can't have that.  :)  But, seriously, I will try to keep it short this time -  besides I have to return to gazing at the blank Microsoft Word page on the computer screen in the hopes that the words to fill 12-pages will magically appear before me).

Question: Is natural always better?

This is by the way a rhetorical question because the point of my post is that I've found out the answer already but please share your thoughts as well.
When I first started this journey of growing out my natural hair.....or I should back up even further because my proclivity for all things naturally-derived and organic goes back as far as junior year of college when I began pursuing a Pre-Med degree by way of a Nutrition and Health Science major.

Alot of my classes were - obviously about nutrition, the makeup of food, the makeup of us as biological beings and the effect of foods on our bodies. I became more conscious about what I was putting in my body in terms of meat for example when I took a class where we learned the USDA grading system for meat, what it means and the type of worm that lives in pork and the degree of heat needed to ensure it is killed during cooking.
Also, I have always suffered from acne-prone skin and had begun to look for new, more natural ways to improve it as the harsh medications were taking a toll on my already highly sensitive skin.
I collected and used all-natural skin treatment recipes (it did not occur to me then this should extend to my hair) BUT....as I grew to appreciate the goodness of extra virgin olive oil it became my staple pre-shampoo hair treatment.
I also knew (and still know very well) what foods will improve certain aspects of the body based on their chemical makeup. I can tell you for example that if you have high cholesterol, you need lots of unsaturated (preferably monounsaturated) fats to replace all other fats in your diet and that this will help your cholesterol levels over time (I am not a doctor....I chose another route) but the knowledge stayed with me as I incorporated it in my own life.
Anyway, despite all this knowledge about food and how it affects the body, I was tempted to believe natural is better when it came to my natural hair. Blame it on an igonorance about the make-up of hair and how hair responds to products applied to it externally.
My biggest wonder was about shampoos.
I read that traditional shampoos were very harsh on curly hair and that because curly hair needs to be moist at all times, gentler alternatives were needed. What gentler alternatives? My initial scouring of youtube for example, found new and veteran Naturals raving about the wonders of Dr. Bronner's Castille soap for cleansing hair and also about African Black soap.
Typical me, I went into research mode to find out, what is Black Soap and why is it better than other soaps for hair? It's not! It is gentler than detergents like all soaps are but the claim about the benefits of saponified oils versus gentler cleansers like those found in shampoos like Organix and DevaCurl No Poo and Low Poo are questionable at best, if not completely unfounded.
The tricky thing is it sounds so great. I mean I only want the best for my hair and  yesterday I was this close *thumb and index finger almost touching* to buying the Dr. Bronner's Castille soap that some naturals have been swearing by for their hair. I mean it said beautiful things on the first line of the ingredients list: 'Saponified coconut oil' - Whaaaat?! My hair loves it some coconut oil - but wait, does the fact that it's 'saponified' change the awesomeness of the coconut oil in it? Answer: Hell yes!
Saponification is the process of applying a highly basic substance usually sodium hydroxide (think lye) or potassium hydroxide to the oil.

-I know you are thinking of relaxers but don't be confused, the sodium hydroxide performs its reaction on the oils to produce soap, no further reaction is performed on your hair like relaxers-

 Anyway, the result of this reaction (saponification process) is a molecular structure that has a hydrophillic (water-attracting) end, binding to water and a fatty end, bindable to oils. This is what makes soap. Now the only virtue of Dr. Bronner's soap over another soap (and I am not including detergents which are harsher over all than soaps and other cleansers) may be the type of fat or oil used in this saponification process and since different oils and fats have different molecular structures, mainly length and type of bonds of the fatty acid tails, it very well may be that some soaps are better than others.
What does this mean for our hair?
Soaps in general have a higher pH than the pH of our hair. And great differences in pH contribute to the breakdown of the hair's own molecular structure to varying degrees. On the other hand, gentler cleansers specifically formulated for curly hair and free of harsh chemicals like SLS and ALS are likely to have a pH closer to the hair's own (I encourage you to investigate the pH for yourself), meaning less harmful to the structure of the hair. If you don't know much about the structure of hair, look it up. Trust me its worth reading and you may see why I came to the conclusion that natural is not always the best for all that beautiful curly, kinky, prone to dryness and delicate mass on top of our heads.
Keep loving your hair and I'll keep using my Organix Coconut Milk shampoo until I can get my hands on that Deva Curl No or Low Poo cleanser to give it a try. Of course a review of it will follow so look out for that.

Porosity and Curly Hair

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Check out this article Porosity and Curly Hair written by Tanya Kay Baker for  naturallycurly.com.  I found it so enlightening, I wanted to share.

My Latest Hair Mystery

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So I know I had promised to explain more about the reason behind my curiosity about scab hair in my last post but there was so much to write, it was already too long by the time I remembered this. So here it is:
I guess I should start first by explaining my hair texture...or at least what I have discovered about it.

My hair is very tightly coiled at the temples and nape and more loosely coiled at the crown, top and center and close to the crown at the back and sides. Thats all I can tell.
I don't really subscribe to hair typing, I am not sure about what the types mean and really, I just find the typing prone to being inaccurate and limiting. There is no definitive line between  a 3c versus a 4a for instance, its perception and somewhat relative. So I just note the curls. Not any coils as far as I can see (s-shapes) but I can't be sure.
Why?
The middle of my head, the crown, puzzles me. It's somewhat wavy, definitely no curls and I have not noted coils or s-shapes. When I was a little girl, the little I remember about my hair was the the middle grew the fastest, and retained length the most, but now back to my natural state, it is the most unresponsive and puzzling part of my head.
I recently read a post on a random blog about scab hair and how it doesn't respond to products and suspected this of the hair in this part of my head. But I wouldn't say it doesn't respond to products, it just waves slightly in response, no definitively tight curl like my nape or looser but still definitive curl like the top of my head, it just seems like it doesn't know which way it wants to curl or what, if anything, it should do.
I felt the roots thinking I should feel more definitive curl pattern there if, say, during my transition phase (where I did blowdry and flat iron frequently) I damaged the new growth that would now be the ends on my current head of hair but the root feels the same. So I want to know: What is scab hair?
I am puzzled.....

Scalp Purifiers and Stimulants and My Improved Protein Treatment

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Hello World,
So I mean for this to be a quick post but I've said that before and....well you know how it ends up.  :)
Anyway, a couple new things with my hair:
-I did a protein treatment this weekend with avocado that amazingly worked really well and to my excitement left my hair gunk-free (last time I tried it, I ended up with bits of white gunk in my hair)
- I found a use for the Mixed Chicks leave-in that I am oh so happy with I might just order it again once I run out!
-I have found a low-cost way to get my curls to last several days.

Ok so here is the protein treatment, its very similar to the one I posted before but I kept it simple:
Braggs Liquid Aminos (about 1/4 cup)
Small avocado (about half)
Honey (1 tbsp)
Olive oil (2 tspn)
Tea tree oil (few drops)
I added tea tree oil because earlier in the week my scalp was itching the heck out of me. I thought maybe it was dirty and I didn't want to shampoo so mid-week I did my usual co-wash and then rinsed with a vinegar and water rinse and massaged my scalp. Then I applied this leave-in:

It's called Fluide Purifiant from Kerastase and its purpose is to 'purify' the scalp including treating dry, itchy scalp. It works for the dryness and flakes. I had dry, flaky scalp for years when I had a relaxer (I think it was my scalp reacting to the harshnes of the relaxer) and nothing worked until I found this. In this case, my scalp wasn't flaky, just itchy. This didn't totally eliminate the itching but it lessened it. I recommend it though it, like all the Kerastase products, is kind of pricey.

Generally, before I do my weekend homemade treatments, I shampoo to remove buildup with Organix and before I shampoo, I do an oil treatment. But not your usual oil treatment - an essential oils treatment. What's the difference you ask? Essential oils take all the best properties of a plant and provide it in a concentrated form. For example regular oil from the rosemary plant may be harmless because of the dilution but the rosemary essential oil - well if you've never used it and you do, you will know, it doesn't play  - you can feel how strong it is, and it smells that way too! In the case of my treatment, the purpose is to stimulate circulation to the scalp and lift any dirt and bacteria from my scalp before I shampoo. I highly recommend it. I have been doing this for years, even when I had a relaxer.
So let me tell you how its done:
Most people do a regular hot oil treatment with some random oil such as OO. Instead try this: add to your hot oil treatment at least 3-4 drops each of the following clarifying and stimulating essential oils:
-Peppermint essential oil
-Eucaluptus essential oil
-Rosemary essential oil
-Basil essential oil
-Cypress essential oil
You can add tea tree oil if you have scalp issues such as dry scalp, dandruff but use only 1-2 drops of this, too much will burn.
Of course you need a base for these oils so OO works, or a lighter base such as Jojoba oil or Sweet Almond Oil (what I use).
I have to warn you, the combo is pungent (the smell) so be prepared. You can help your nose out by putting on a cap and a towel over it. The best is to apply this treatment the day before you plan to shampoo and sleep on it, with a cap on of course and make sure to protect your pillows because the smell lingers.

I leave it on overnight or a couple of hours if its same day then I take the cap off and let the scalp get air a few hours before I shampoo. These oils increase blood flow to the scalp (you will feel it) and the antibiotic properties of tea tree clarifies as well. If you are too lazy to invest in purchasing each of these oils and mixing them, you can just buy this:
The product is called Phytopolleine and it is basically a mixture of essential oils meant to stimulate the scalp. Its also pricey so you might be better off mixing your own. But the good thing is it includes scalp-stimulating essential oils  proven to work but are hard to find individually. Either way the goal is to massage, clarify and stimulate your scalp for optimal hair growth and health. It smells pungent too but luckily either way you do it, shampoo will wash away the smell.
My Mixed Chicks leave-in revelation will have to wait until another post. I have already broken my promise to you to keep this short. My bad. Anyway I hope all this stuff is helpful to you all and as always I welcome ideas as well. Can anyone explain how to tell if I have scab hair?  My next post will explain why I ask. Bye for now....