Hair 101

So I'm sharing the tips I've learned in the year and a half that I've been natural. They are minor things, some I've come to through trial and error and a number of mistakes, some I stumbled upon pretty quickly, but they have all worked to help me refine my regimen.
Speaking of regimen, I have come to realize that it's the regimen, not the products that results in healthy hair.

Of course the right products are equally important, but you could be using the most amazing products,and  if your regimen is not solid or is counterproductive, you will have issues with length retention, breakage, etc.

Now for the tips, here goes:

Tip #1: For those of you who joined me on my ayurvedic challenge (here and here), you remember my shikakai hair cleansing tea/shampoo. And if you used the tea, you realized that it does not lather in a way we are used to with suds and bubbles and it is watery, resulting in a mess if not used in the shower.
If you want the benefits of using an ayurvedic cleanser such as it is but with the comforting experience of a lather, try mixing a 50-50 ratio of the shikakai tea and your traditional shampoo (of course I recommend a natural shampoo like dudu-osum but anyone will do). This will get you the benefits of the tea in a form familiar to you.

Tip #2: If you are on a budget like I am and need a natural-based conditioner with great slip, then I recommend the Kinky Curly leave-in. If, however, the price is steep for what you get, like I think it is, then try this:
 Mix the Kinky-Curly leave-in with your co-wash/daily/detangling conditioner. You will still get the slip the Kinky Curly leave-in offers and because it is mixed with another cheaper conditioner, it will last longer. I mix my Kinky-Curly leave-in (50-50 ratio) with the Everyday Shea conditioner from Whole Foods. You get alot of conditioner and the mix does equally well with detangling. The only drawback is you end up rinsing away the Kinky-Curly leave-in unless your detangling conditioner is a leave-in as well.

Tip #3: Pre-shampoo with oils - any oils will do. You will read naturals suggesting pre-shampoo with a specific mix of oils but the reality is it doesn't really matter what oils you use. The result is just to coat the hair and smooth the cuticle to counter the effects of a traditional shampoo which will tends to strip your hair. Just make sure your oil is plant-based and I have found that virgin-processed oils impart great herbal benefits as well for your scalp. Great virgin-processed oils are virgin olive oil, cold-pressed tamanu oil and castor oil. But to be honest, good ole corn oil that you use to cook, works just as well.
Tip #4: Mix conditioners. Yes. You can. I have in the past gone through phases of PJism (I have to admit) and I throw nothing away. I mean I paid good money for it. So I mix my conditioners to get the benefits of each. Right now I am mixing my Everyday Shea detangling conditioner with my Kinky-Curly leave-in to get the slip benefits of the leave-in and make it last longer.

Tip #4: Wash your hair in braids. Its only  a bit less time consuming but it has saved my hair alot of breakage.

Tip #5: Wanna skip the time and work it takes to henna but enjoy the strengthening benefits of henna? Try a henna tea and use as a rinse. Basically boil your henna powder, add your favorite oils, let cool for at least 4 hours, strain, and pour the cooled mixture over freshly shampooed hair. You can even bottle any remainder for future use, saving you the time to re-mix or make a new rinse. If you are in the bath, you can let the rinse sit in your hair for awhile before washing it away. The longer it sits, the more of its benefits your hair will sustain.
That's it for today folks!
Look for the following upcoming posts from me:
Review of Karen's Body Beautiful Hair Mask
Review of Vatika Oil
For the Busy ( or Lazy) Naturals Like Me: Using Aloe Vera Mist to Get Moist Re-Twists

Diary of a Naturalista: Addendum: SEE LINK!

I came across this article and from the title I was expecting something laughable and indeed it was.  Check out #7, because that pertains most to us naturalistas but I couldn't help but laugh.  Is it true?  I wrote a whole blog about dating and men and talked a lot about black men's response to my hair so I won't go into that again.  I laugh at it but I guess it may be true for some black men... but I don't think those are the ones I'd be interested in anyway, so I'd probably just say good riddance.  But read the entire thing.  You'll get a good chuckle at least or maybe just shake your head. 


http://madamenoire.com/48275/eight-ways-to-make-a-black-man-run/9/

Perception of Us Among Us: A Recent Incident

I meant to post on this for awhile. Its at the point where while I'm nursing baby, I literally imagine what I will post word for word and if only I had that mind-Jedi thing, there would be lots of posts written from my head, but alas I actually have to find the time to sit down with my computer and type that ish out.
Its kind of a response to a post my sister wrote about what "white people" may think about our hair. I can't remember the title of the post to quote it word for word so forgive me if I'm politically incorrect in the description of the post (for those who are bothered). And its not really a response but its along the same thread of how others view Blacks -except this incident I happened upon isn't an 'other' view of us but a 'us' view of us. Here goes:
My boyfriend is white. I tell you this only because its central to the story. And so my son, is bi-racial. This too is key - somewhat.
So I went for my typical evening walk with my bf and my little boy, the other evening. Baby is in stroller, and I am walking along wearing a hat (to cover my twists) and big earrings (to TRY and look semi-cute regardless). My bf is pushing the stroller when this little 'brown-skinned' boy who lives across the street is standing around with who I assume is his grandmother (older woman) and another little 'brown-skinned' boy. The boy  who appears no more than about 7 or 8, yells from across the street 'I wanna see the baby' and immediately skates over on that scooter thing the kids ride these days.
The other little 'brown-skinned' boy (but darker), who appears about the same age, follows him. He comes over, looks at baby, who is very very light-skinned (I only point this out because it's central to the story as well) and say: 'Aww, how cute'.
Then he turns to my bf and says, 'but what are you doing with HER?' (He pointed to me). Of course I look around me to see who  'HER' is, because I am appalled by the emphasis on her and equally appalled at his brazen-ness in addressing me, an adult, the way he did. My bf (who annoyed me even validating this kid's question with a response) says the typical, 'she's my gf , I love her, yadda yadda,' and the boy replies: 'But he's white (pointing to baby), you're white, and she's......brown (you imagine how the 'brown' was actually said, and if you can't, let me place it into proper context for you: The 'brown' hit me in the face like, let's say, a palm leaf (not fun, feels rough, kind of annoying, but no serious harm done). I swear though, he made a face when he said 'brown.'
 The incredulity of the whole conversation made me laugh but it was actually kind of sad that he thought this way. I said to him: 'But YOU'RE brown," and no lie, this little brown-skinned boy with some crazy things growing out of his head that might be dreads (hair was such a crazy mix of long and short kinkiness, I could not tell) looked me straight in the eye and (with his very dark-skinned friend beside him) said: 'I'm not brown, I'm almost white.'

(Now later my bf would tell me the little boy actually said 'my grandma said I'm almost white' but I don't remember the 'my grandma said' part). Could be though that his response sent me into a mild delirium (out of surprise) because I swear I became disoriented and couldn't remember if I was actually where I was, or in some alternate universe, I was so taken-aback.
For some unclear reason, I thought to rationalize with him, so he could see the flaw in his thinking: I said to him, 'what about your friend? Isn't he brown?'  But I quickly realize this was a futile pursuit on my part when his response was to ramble on about his friend falling and cutting himself. What did I expect after all? I mean I was talking to an 8 year old 'brown-skinned' Black boy, who thinks he is 'almost white.'

Did I already say I just found it immensely sad? How could this little Black boy, want to be someone else so badly that he convince himself he IS, or how could a family member be possessed with such self-hate, that she allow this boy to identify himself as 'almost' some other, as opposed to having him be proud of who he IS. And then to emphasize the distorted world he lives in, he placed me, who is the same complexion as him exactly, in the category of brown, whilst unable to see he is the same color.
I would joke about it later to my bf that if he had seen my hair he might have expressed double disdain! And not just said '..but she's...brown!' but may have remarked 'but she's...brown....AND she has kinky hair!!'
'Cuz if he is 'almost white,' then I'm SURE his hair is also, 'almost straight.'

Hair Update and my Twists Regimen

So what have I been doing with my hair of late?
My hair has been in a series of twists, twistouts and messy 'fros. I wish I had pics to post but its so hard to find the time these days.
Anyway, here's the scoop:
I have been experimenting with different size twists and have found that smaller twists last longer. But with a newborn, I no longer have the time for really small twists (when done well, they used to last two weeks, seriously) so now I can only manage the big twists which unfortunately for me, don't last more than two or three days max! Do you guys have any idea what I can do to make my bigger twistouts last longer? Or does it come with the bigger twists?
To get my twists defined and shiny here is what I have been doing:
-wash my hair in braids with dudu-osun shampoo (if hair was out then I dampen my hair, apply my co-wash/daily conditioner, detangle section by section and braid each detangled section)
-condition with my brahmi-ginseng conditioner (homemade) and let sit for about 5 minutes (I'd love to do longer but again, with a baby I have to rush rush rush)
-apply deep conditioner - Phyto, work through hair while still in braids and rinse
-apply kinky curly leave-in and castor oil to each section I unravel, comb through/detangle and re-braid the section
-once hair dries (I allow about a day for that), I twist with my homemade mix (will provide link to the post that has the recipe soon) or with Qhemet Biologics Heavy Cream or with just shea butter/coconut oil/palm kernel oil mix.
-Everyday the twists are in, I seal in  moisture with castor oil or jojoba oil. Once my hair is in twistouts, I re-moisturize with a Phyto cream that has Quinoa oil in it (its in a white tube, I will post the exact name soon but the stuff is good and it smells awesome).

I am also looking for a new deep conditioner. I am running out of the one I currently have, Phyto. And in the name of using only natural-based products on my hair, I don't think I'll re-stock as the Phyto deep conditioner has silicones in it which aren't the worst things in the world but are known to dry out hair and since I'm prone to dry hair, I will stay away.
I have been hearing good things about Karen's Body Beautiful line in general. The only thing that makes me hesitate is the products are a bit pricey but if I can  get my hands on the deep conditioner, I would definitely try it. In the meantime, I'll finish the Phyto that I do have right now.
I have never been length-obsessed but I have, of late, felt more eager for my hair to grow longer as its in what I think is this awkward stage - far from a cute twa but not long enough to put in a ponytail.
So that's what I've been up to. I will definitely try to put up more posts going forward.

What do white people really think about black hair??

I work with a lot of Caucasions, between my patients and my co-workers.  Since starting my natural journey, my hair has been a source of wonder for lack of a better word.  That doesn't surprise me, as it it still a wonder to myself.  Being still in my experimentation stage (I have to admit, i don't have this natural thing quite figured out just yet), I have rocked many a different hairstyle to work, although I try to keep it as professional as possible.  I started out with my afro puff, then moved on to twist outs, then I had long waist length box braids for awhile, bantu knot-outs ... you name it I've tried it.  I've had more than my share of bad hair days... days when I experimented with style expecting a certain result and when I wake up on Monday morning and undo it, it's something completely different.  Of course, I have to go to work and there's no time to fix it so I just gotta roll with it.  Needless to say, I've had many self-conscious days.
By and large the comments from my white patients and co workers have been good.  They LOVED the box braids.  It turned out many of them thought it was my real hair.  And I wonder how can anyone logically think they are real when just a week before I had a short afro puff?  How can hair grow 3 feet over the course of a weekend.  This one completely perplexed me!
I had rave reviews of my twist outs as well and my afro puffs would get the occasional, "how cute" comment. 
Well yesterday at work I had one of my wackier patients ask me if I ever wear extensions.  I replied that I have occasionally.  She says she has been thinking about getting some extensions, the long curly kind.  I told her it would suit her, hoping the conversation would end there.  Then she starts to talk about how she likes to switch up her hairstyles often.  She tells me she's noticed that I wear my hair different almost every time she sees me (which is probably true), then she goes on to say  "... but you have to, because you're black".  I wasn't sure what that meant and didn't really care to ask so I left it at that and tried to sneak away but she kept on talking.
"Have you seen the movie 'Good Hair?' "
I groaned inaudibly because I know how it is when white people get a peek at something that is an insight into black people and things that are unique to them.  They sometimes take their own perspective on it and think of it as another way black people are inferior or at least different.  I replied no.  She tells me how funny the movie was because of Chris Rock's commentary and how she feels "so sorry for you black people because of all the stuff you have to do to your hair". 
Wtf??
I reply that many black women choose to do things to their hair, they don't have to.  Just then someone called me and I made a quick exit and was very relieved to get out of that conversation because I hate having to educate ignorant people although maybe it is my duty as an intelligent black woman.  But I was perplexed about that for awhile.  Do white people really feel sorry for us??  I'm not sure how others feel but pity to me is the sister of scorn.  Maybe that's a little strong, but when someone pities someone it almost always comes with a feeling of superiority.  I could be wrong though.
I felt the need to tell somebody because although disturbing, it was also amusing.  So I tell my one black female coworker about what I just experienced and she just shrugs.  Which made me think maybe she is one of those black women who don't identify herself with other black women as a collective... the "she's not talking about me" phenomenon but I"m very sure she was.  
Now, what my patient said wasn't outright racist or even overtly offensive and maybe I read too much into it.  Actually I didn't really think of it much again until now as I write this blog but it has left an imprint on my subconscious.  The longer I have natural hair the more I identify with what it means to be a black woman and feel the need to defend us as a collective.  So I learned something new about how white women view us but more importantly I learned something new about myself and the ways I've grown since being on this "natural journey".

Hair and Pregnancy

I have meant to do a post on this for awhile but alas, the time when you have a young baby - where does it go?! What led me to want to do this post was that I noticed at about three months after baby's birth, alot of hair left in my comb during a comb-out session, usually after a wash. I was puzzled for a minute, until I remember reading about post-partum hair loss.

Ladies, if you have been through it, you know its somewhat disconcerting to see a palm-ful of your glorious hair in - well - your palm. And you may have wondered why you are losing so much hair. And if you are like me, you tried to find out why by researching about it, or maybe you didn't. I just want to let you know, however upsetting it may be - it's perfectly normal. 

Here is a brief breakdown. Your hair as you know has a natural growth, resting and shedding cycle that is determined by genetics. You can't control that. You also can't control how your hair will respond to the hormones in your body. Hormones during pregnancy such as progesterone alters your hair's natural growth, resting and shedding cycle, mostly impacts the shedding cycle and for most women this means, thicker, a more lustrous-looking mane during pregnancy. But try not to get attached. That extra-lustrous mane you have on your head during your nine months is temporary (extra blood vessels and blood during pregnancy also help the luminous-ness of your mane by bringing extra nutrients to the scalp).
After you give birth, hormone levels return to normal and (and so does your blood volume). The result is that your hair also returns to normal. The process of your hair getting back to normal is what you see with the significant hair loss. Since the shedding phase was put on hold during your pregnancy, all the hair that would have otherwise shed, do so post-partum. Hence the comb-ful of hair.

Don't get discouraged if you are just starting out your hair journey or in the early stages like me  (of course it can be equally disheartening when you have five years worth of long natural hair, coming out as well). Its temporary. The hair loss peaks about 3-4 months post-partum and should taper off after that. Just make sure the hair is not breaking, it should be coming out from the root, if it does at all. And keep up your haircare regimen. You are likely doing nothing wrong and its just a natural process. If over 6 months post-partum you are still experiencing alot of shedding, you may want to talk to your doctor as the hair loss should likely have slowed back to your normal amounts by then for most of us.
To help keep my hair healthy during this difficult time, I take a vitamin A supplement in the form of a cod liver oil emulsion.
To all you natural new mommies out there, what do you do to keep your hair healthy post-partum?

How Do You Wash Your Hair?

Since going natural I have washed my hair the same as when I was relaxed. But it took several recent washes after which I noticed alot of lost hair in the comb-out process for me to realize that different hair texture (and a more tangly one) might have to mean different approach to washing.
I had read where other naturals with much longer hair, credits washing in braids with hair length retention and thought, 'hey, they are obviously doing something right with the hair to show, why not try it?' So I did. And yes definitely I noticed less hair lost in the washing process.
I thought it might be a bit tricky since I usually scrub my scalp and hair with a rubbing motion and didn't want to put tension on the braided strands. So I just made sure I was gentler with the scrubbing especially with the delicate nape, sides and front hair.
So this will be my technique from now on.
Have you thought about your hair-washing technique?